The pre-construction checklist.

Zoning allows your building and its use

Call the county planning office with your parcel number. Ask about the use class ("accessory building", "agricultural building") — an ag exemption can waive permit requirements entirely on farm parcels, but only if your use genuinely qualifies.

Setbacks and easements located on a survey

Most counties require 10–50 ft from property lines and more from wells, septic fields, and road rights-of-way. Utility easements can cross a parcel invisibly — build on one and you may be forced to move the building at your cost.

HOA covenants and deed restrictions checked

Deed restrictions survive even where zoning says yes. Check for size caps, exterior material rules ("no metal siding"), and outbuilding bans before ordering anything.

All-in budget set — not just the shell price

Site work, concrete, electrical service, driveway access, and permits routinely add 30–60% on top of a bare shell quote. Price the whole project with the calculator before you compare builder bids.

10–15% contingency reserved

Rock during excavation, wet-site drainage fixes, and material price moves are normal, not exceptional. If the contingency goes unspent, it becomes your gravel apron or extra concrete.

Building permit filed — or the exemption confirmed in writing

If the county says you are exempt (common for agricultural use), get the name of who told you and an email confirming it. "The builder said we didn't need one" does not survive an insurance dispute.

Septic, well, and driveway permits where they apply

A barndominium or any plumbed building usually triggers a septic review. New road access can need a driveway/culvert permit from the road authority — cheap now, expensive after the fact.

Truck access confirmed for delivery and concrete

A semi with 60 ft trusses and a loaded concrete truck (~66,000 lbs) must reach the pad. Check gate widths, overhead lines, culvert ratings, and turning radius — a concrete pump truck day-rate is the usual price of getting this wrong.

Pad cleared, graded, and compacted

The pad should sit above surrounding grade with topsoil stripped and fill compacted in lifts. Posts set in uncompacted fill settle — and everything above them moves with it.

Drainage planned away from the building

Plan the water path before the building exists: swales, gutters, and downspout discharge that keep runoff off the slab and out of the post holes. Water is the #1 killer of post-frame buildings.

3+ itemized bids compared line by line

A lump-sum number hides what's excluded — and exclusions are where cheap bids live. Demand line items for posts, trusses, sheathing, doors, concrete, and site work so bids compare like-for-like.

License and insurance certificates verified directly

Ask for the certificate of general liability AND workers' comp, then call the insurer to confirm it's current. If an uninsured crew member is hurt on your land, the claim can land on you.

References from 2+ completed builds called

Ask each: Did the final price match the bid? What surprised you? Would you hire them again? Ask to see a building that's 3+ years old — new steel hides everything.

Itemized contract with change-order terms

The contract should name materials (gauge, brand, warranty), the payment schedule, the timeline, and how changes are priced and approved — in writing, before work, every time.

Deposit ≤25–30%, payments tied to milestones

A deposit above ~30% before material delivery is a red flag. Tie each payment to something you can see: materials delivered, posts set, shell dried-in, final walkthrough.

Lien waivers collected at each payment

If your builder doesn't pay the truss plant, the truss plant can lien YOUR property — even though you paid. A signed lien waiver with each check closes that door.